Flies, mosquitoes, and other biting insects can turn a good day's ride into a recipe for disaster. Although not always an issue, anytime you and your horse head to the mountains to ride, it is wise to be prepared to deal with the local 'pests'. In the Montana mountains surrounding our resort you should prepare for mosquitoes, stable flies, deer flies, and occasional horse flies.
While the smaller flies can be particularly pesky in June, mosquitoes usually last through late July. Deer flies and horse flies become an issue in late June to mid July (in some years). However, by early to mid August the bugs are usually pretty well wiped out by an early frost. Nonetheless, coming prepared will make your trip enjoyable - regardless of the insects you may encounter. Fortunately, several good products are available which will make you and your horse more comfortable.
According to Greg Johnson, PhD, an entomologist at Montana State University, "Chemical companies are responding to the needs of horse owners for easy treatment, such as products you can apply around the eyes and sensitive areas where you don't want to spray." Although there are a lot of products available, there are really only a few basic ingredients. The chemical companies, however, have worked up several variations and formulations which adjust the practicality and usability of the product - targeting specific markets.
As much as we'd like it to be so, no product will make your horse (or you) 'invisible' to insects. Lee Townsend, PhD, an extension entomologist at the University of Kentucky says, "Horses protected by insecticide/repellent still attract insects because flies/mosquitoes use animal movement, body warmth, or expelled carbon dioxide to find a blood meal. You can't change this by any treatment you put on your horse; you're just trying to short-circuit the insect's hunting process at the last minute."
"There are two main groups of insecticides used in equine products," says Townsend. "One is natural pyrethrins derived from chrysanthemum flowers. While very safe for aniamls, they are broken down by sunlight quickly and may only give protection for a few hours." The other group is made from permethrins (synthetic pyrethrins). These last longer because they are more stable - often providing protection for three to five days. Permethrins are highly toxic to insects, but are one of the least toxic insecticides to mammals. In fact, they are similar to the insecticides used on vegetable and fruit crops to prevent insect damage.
Permethrins are not very soluble in water, but if your horse is working and sweating, or walking through water, they will tend to wash off. Some repellents now contain a binding agent to help the repellent resist 'wash-off', however, if you're riding your horse, it is best to be prepared to re-treat them frequently.
Permethrins are also vulnerable to breakdown due to the sun's rays. Some chemical companies have responded to this issue by adding sun-block to their products. In addition, there is a wide range of concentrations available on the market. Products, such as spot-ons, may have as high as 40% concentration, compared to one tenth of a percent in a wipe or spray. However, when your horse is working hard and sweating, "you may want to use a lower concentration of insecticide and more frequent applications. Those with a lower percentage won't provide protection as long, but you can safely apply them more frequently. If you are working with an animal daily, this might be the best strategy." Townsend says.
For horses in pasture it is helpful to remember even the best repellents are only effective for up to a few days. If you're working your horse regularly, chances are you're treating them regularly. However, if not, you still need to monitor them regularly to see how effective your repellent actually is. Chances are, even when using the longest lasting product on the market, you'll need to retreat them every few days.
When picking the product for your horse, be sure to read the labels. Some companies add binding agents. Some include sun block. Some add aloe-vera or another soothing material. Others add coat conditioner. "By reading labels, you can make better choices for your purposes, and in some cases look for a more economical approach to fly control - - simply by knowing what's there and not letting a brand name entice you." Townsend advises.
It's also important to know when, where, and how often to apply the product. Some, for instance, are not safe for young foals. Others are not to be applied more than once very two weeks. 'Read the label' is Townsend's advise.
In addition, some products boast they are effective on a large variety of insects. However, Townsend says he's skeptical. "I know the rates, type of chemical, and application methods used will not kill horse flies, deer flies, stable flies, and horn flies." Some products claim to protect against mosquitoes for 14 days, but, Townsend says, "I haven't seen any hard evidence to support that claim."
Application plays a major role. Stable flies tend to bite on the legs and chest because the skin is thinner there. Therefore, if stable flies are your biggest pest, be sure to treat these areas carefully. On the other hand, mosquitoes will bite anywhere. So, proper mosquito repellent application must cover the entire body. For both these pests, repellents need to be applied daily to be most effective.
Regardless of what repellent you choose - it is very important you continue to monitor your horse's skin condition. Some horses develop an allergic reaction to insecticides. Even if your horse seems to be tolerating your current product well, during times of heavy insect infestation, it is wise to monitor your horse's skin condition ever time you apply your repellent.
Even when your horse is treated, flies will continue to approach and may even land on them before being forced away by your repellent (some of which kill them after they leave). However, some insects continue to challenge the product - returning to feed as soon as the repellent factors begin to break down. In the meantime, they can still annoy the horse - even when they aren't settling on them.
Thus the value of another form of protection. Physical protection does not rely on repellent agents to defend your horse against pests. Long before insecticides were available, horse owners were quite creative in helping their animals combat pests. The most common 'help' was to increase the effectiveness of the horse's natural defenses (mane and tail) by adding long fringe to their halters, bridles, and harnesses.
Although these methods still bear merit, modern technology has developed even more effective means to keep your horse comfortable. Fly masks, bonnets, leg wraps, and body sheets are the most common. There are a variety of fly masks and bonnets on the market. Some protect just the eyes, others cover the cheeks and ears. Whatever form you choose, look for one which has fleece lining around the opening edges to keep flies from crawling inside the mask.
Leg wraps and boots are gaining in popularity. Some of these wraps have repellent strips built in. One drawback to this, however, is the potential for skin irritation from the constant contact with the insecticide. However, if your horse tolerates them, they can be an added bonus.
Fly sheets can also come with built-in insecticides. The same caution applies here. In addition, whether we're talking sheets or leg wraps, be sure they are made from a breathable fabric. You want something with a fine enough mesh the insect cannot penetrate and yet light enough your horse gets adequate air circulation.
One final thought on insect repellents - be sure to use caution when applying them, particularly the spray on formulas. Many horses are skittish about having their legs sprayed. One suggestion is to stand on the opposite side of a slated wall or divider when spraying your horse. You can spray them, but they cannot get to you.
Read the labels carefully. If you're using a mixed product, it is wise to re-read the label before making each batch. In addition, professionals recommend you protect your skin from the chemicals when treating your horse. They recommend you wear rubber gloves, a hat (to keep the spray away from your face), and a long-sleeve shirt. "Ideally you should wear a mask," Bill Clymer, PhD, BCE, ARPAS, a parasitologist in Amarillo, Texas, working with Fort Dodge Animal Health, recommends. One way or another, use caution, and wash your hands well after each application.
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